August 25, 2010

So that's Thailand: Khaosan Zoo

My feet were tired and my whole body felt weary from the walk I had just subjected it to. Around me the streets whizzed by in a blur every sound drowned out by the high pitch scream of the tuk-tuks engine while beside me Richard sat in a similar zombie-like state. It had only been a few hours of exploring but in this town, Bangkok, nothing goes as expected. I checked the time, 5pm. Just four, or was it five hours ago, Richard and I had stepped out of Hua Lamphong station after checking out some details on a train and been accosted by a tuk-tuk tout.

‘Where you want to go?’ the tuk-tuk driver began the traditional exchange. Richard and I glanced at each other. Both seasoned travelers we were wary of anybody offering any kind of help, especially in a city known for its creative interpretation of directions.

With a shrug I decided to engage and replied, ‘Khaosan Road.’ A decent ride by bus and an unknown walk on foot I was interested in finding out what kind of deal this guy would give us. The bus was a cheap 7 baht and there was no way this guy could beat it, not with their greedy nature and high consumption needs.

‘Today, special price for you, 10 baht each.’ My shoulders went stiff and my radar received a ‘bullshit’ ping. It smelled of one of those rides that ended in misery for those stuck in the back of the tuk-tuk. I had read stories of people dragged from one souvenir shop to another in the tuk-tuk drivers desperate attempt to get them to buy something and receive a commission.

‘Ten baht…that’s pretty unbelievable…’ I began. ‘Really, today special day. Queens birthday. Only one stop, then Khaosan Road.’

At the words ‘one stop’ Richard’s eyes narrowed and he began to back away. My arm shot out and caught his as I gave him a quick ‘one second’ look.

‘Only one stop…how long do we have to be in the store?’ My research had said for the driver to get their ‘gas coupon’ a tourist needed to be inside for 5 to ten minutes. The driver smiled, realizing I knew what was going on. ‘Only ten minutes, then I get my coupon. Okay?’

I looked back to Richard, ‘Ten baht and ten minutes of our time…good with you?’ With a reluctant nod he agreed and seconds later we were off.

…

‘What do you mean you want to go to Khaosan Road?’ the small Bangkok born Nepalese man spat from his mouth. ‘A minute ago you said you wanted a suit but now you are saying something different. What is it you want?’ Richard and I relaxed back in the large lounge chairs exchanging somewhat amused looks. ‘Like we said, we wanted to go to Khaosan Road but we had to come here first.’

The dark mans face furrowed with agitation, ‘You trust any tuk-tuk driver, even if you don’t know where they take you?’

I looked at my wrist where a watch usually sat. Yeah, the casual conversation, banter, and initial bullshit was over and it felt like ten minutes had passed. The man was a crappy salesmen and had pretty much violated all the rules of a successful sale, especially the one about offending customers.

‘Yeah, we trust tuk-tuk drivers when they are up front and honest with us. Thank you for your time but we won’t be buying any suits from you.’

Without missing a beat, ‘so, what about those shirts you were interested in? I can get them made for you…’ ‘Thank you but no,’ I interrupted. ‘It’s time for us to go.’

…

Khaosan Road, the infamous tourist trap of Bangkok. At one time it might have been the heart of the Asian backpacking circuit but now it’s more like a zoo. My first impression as we crawled out of the back of our tuk-tuk was, ‘wow, I’m glad I didn’t stay here.

Both sides of the street are lined with two layers of shops. The first layer is the hawkers with their mobile stands. Behind them lie the backbone of the area, hostels and bars.

It seemed that every hostel in the area had a fancy ground floor bar which opened up on to the street giving them a spacious feeling. Inside those bars was the occasional backpacker but mostly it was tourists. The ‘let’s meet and talk’ atmosphere was displaced by a more prevalent ‘I’m on Khaosan Road –Hell yeah!-.’

T-shirts blaring advertisements for Chang Beer, Bangkok City, and Visit Thailand were in vogue and graced the chests of most of the people lost in their beer and conversation around the fashionable wooden tables. From what I could see they were really enjoying their ‘backpackers’ life. Living it up like the hippies of old (of which there are still quite a few hanging around).

It took only one walk through for me and Richard to be finished with the place. Some people might have found the place full of character and life, me, after all the places I’ve been, thought it kitschy and almost heartless. The true life and soul of the place is actually on the side roads around the place and that is where Richard and I did the most exploring.

Just a few streets down the noise and bustle of Khaosan faded into the distance and was replaced by a more subtle relaxed feeling. The occasional hostel sandwiched between used book stores for backpackers were subdued and groups of people could be seen talking or just laying around reading in the dim lobbies.

You could hear the cities blood flowing, albeit muffled, all around yet it was unable to penetrate to these quieter oasis. Here, people strolled about chatting with the vendors who sat in the shade fanning themselves in the killer heat, creating some semblance of community. Left, right, right, left we turned through the different streets to the point where I was completely lost. If I wanted to go back today I would have no idea how to get there.

An occasional break in the common white walls revealed ornate temples (called wats in Thailand), neither hidden nor advertised.

One wat, two wats, three, to me they began to look the same. I know that sounds like heresy to many but remember, I lived in Kyoto for 6 years where I saw at least 3-4 temples a day going to and from work. As beautiful and ornate as they get, well, let’s just say I have my limits. Golden Buddha’s, wooden Buddha’s, concrete Buddha’s, even jade ones, I’ve seen a lot. I’m sure that some day I will look back and the pictures after years of living in a country with no such thing and go, ‘wow!’ but for now it’s, ‘hmmm, that’s interesting…’

When at last our feet and minds could take no more ‘home’ became out goal but the problem was how to get there… We had taken a tuk-tuk here and no idea where the bus was, or even if there was one. Taxi drivers we stopped either shook their heads ‘no’ to our request or stated crazy amounts of money and we were hesitant to grab another tuk-tuk. It may have been cheap but we had no energy to deal with another jerk salesmen.

Finally we gave in to the tuk-tuk hailing the first one that came by. Hesitantly we asked the price fearing the ’10 baht for you’ deal.

He looked at us, ‘150 baht.’ Richard and I smiled and began to walk away, thus starting the negotiation.

‘Alright, 120 baht, special price.’ I turned around, ‘too expensive, we give you 60 baht.’ A pause, ‘100 baht, really good price.’ I looked at Richard then back at the driver, ’70 baht.’ A rueful grin, ‘100 baht, good price.’ ’80 baht, best we can do.’

Silence, a moment of thought, ‘okay, 80 baht.’

Sitting down in such a cramped space had never felt so good. Bangkok, what a fun city.

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