July 27, 2010
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Memories of Kaohsiung: Parting is such sweet sorrow...

I stepped off the train in Hualien and knew it was going to be one of those nights.  Five and a half hours ago I had boarded a train in Kaohsiung in weather that might have been considered decent but as we moved steadily northward it became apparent that decent was going to turn into crap. 

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July 26, 2010
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Memories of Kaohsiung: A happy birthday

I don’t think I could have asked for any better way to spend the first few hours of my 29th birthday.  Standing at the Martyrs Shrine in Kaohsiung, Taiwan looking out over a spectacular night view I had to laugh.  Beside me my new friend Molly (in Taiwan everyone seems to have a Westernized nickname) looked

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July 26, 2010
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Memories of Kaohsiung: My $150 shave

It was nothing like the movies.  She didn’t lather my face with shaving cream, she didn’t wrap a big fluffy cotton towel around my neck, she didn’t even smile and speak in a comforting Italian accent.  After a quick application of a rather thin cream she got to work with a brisk businesslike air.  I could

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